Sorry for the long read but I wanted to detail my whole expierence. So I am not sure which one you really need but I would try that one. So it works perfect and so more pouring oil out the front seal. Took it home and I have only a small seep from the front cover like when I started but my idle didnt change this time. I had them give me the number for an 85 Mustang which is the last of the carbed 302 and it was a letter A. So I went to the parts store and looked at a bunch and they seem to be lettered on the bottoms of all of them. I looked at the one I first used and on the little valve inside it has a letter stamped on the bottom and mine was an H. Well it was still pouring out once I got to the show! The next thing I tried was a balancer sleeve and well it still leaked the same! So the last thing I could try is a different PCV. So I ripped the balancer and seal out and picked up a new one so I was good for the show. This was on a Sat before I had to be at a show on Sun. After doing this I suddenly developed a bad oil leak at the front seal around the balancer. Went home and pulled it out and whalla was able to set my timing at 12 and idle at 700 where I like it. shop and he suggested I take off the PCV since it is technicaly still a vacuume leak and would cause my issue. It stayed at 1200 or so and that is too high for me on a stock motor so I had to put it at 8 and it was fine at 8-850rpm in drive. It worked on my new setup but I couldnt get my idle to go down when I put my inital timing at 10-12. I started out with a PCV that I had taken off my 66 Ranchero due to it sucking oil and blowing it out the exhaust.
I only have a stock 88 GT 302 with the external bolt-on's so there is no radical cam or heads. I can't tell you the flows and stuff but I can tell you what I just went through for the last 4 weeks with mine. Maybe it really doesn't have much of an effect to be concerned with? Any input would be appreciated.Thanks
Then again from underneath, use WD-40 with the little tube and spray in the area you just pried. You will only be able to get about half way around since the PCV valve body is blocking most of the connector bottom.
#Evom pcv valve size driver
I have also heard that the wrong PCV can result in oil consumption as well. First, from under neath, use a pick or tiny screw driver to pry around the rubber connector. I don't want to pull too little vacuum and have a potential overpressure scenario and I also don't want to be pulling too much causing a poor idle or perhaps overly lean situation either. In looking at the various PCV options on the Summit web site when I ordered mine, I didn't see anything mentioned about their flow ratings so at that time I just took it that they were all the same. I just have a billet one that I ordered from Summit installed on my engine, but have no idea if it is sized correctly for my application.
#Evom pcv valve size how to
I have recently seen some information talking about there being different flow rate and spring rate ratings in the PCV valves to better match the idle vacuum of the engine, but haven't found how to determine the rating of the PCV valve. Yay.I was wondering what the best way is to select the proper PCV valve for a non-stock performance engine? I realize that the PCV valve is supposed to be closed or very close to closed at idle when vacuum is higher and then open up as vacuum is reduced to evacuate any blow-by gases. This weekend I get to put a new fuel pump in. Which is to say, cheap.īut I'd pay three times the cost of your run-of-the-mill valve if it would fix the rattle. But I've looked at so many of them I've lost count, and frankly no matter the brand or cost, they all feel and look exactly the same. My only other thought is perhaps trying to find a higher-quality standard PCV valve. I don't want to create a larger problem for myself by using an improper part, but I've got to get rid of that rattle. What I have yet to determine is if the valve is okay for my truck. It was only a couple of dollars, so I picked it up. The rattle returned the second I replaced the valve.Īfter a lot more digging, I found the number for an equivalent fixed orifice valve at Autozone.
I had gone a long time without hearing it because the old valve had gotten gunked up and was sticking. All you have to do is lay a finger on it at idle and you can tell. The rattle on my truck is definitely the valve itself.
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